A toast - Happy 6 Months Friends (PCVs 2012-2014 Morocco)!

Time slowly runs and quickly walks. One day goes by and suddenly 6 months are past; now here we are reflecting on our past 6 months living in Morocco. Look at us – overcoming challenges, facing our fears, staying committed, enduring, leading, learning, growing, and simply being awesome.

I remember my second Sunday in country – I was lying next to a napping Arie. It was a cold and rainy March day and I had never felt so alone and sad, so unsure of my place in the world. All I wanted was the warmth of home and family...but that day passed.

I remember my second week in site – it was June and I was hot and sweaty, overwhelmed by real and true culture shock, and covered (head-to-toe) in bed-bug bites. I had never been so frustrated, angry, and distraught, so ready to throw in the towel and quit...but that day passed.

And here we are celebrating 6 months – a great accomplishment – at our IST (in-service training) in Marrakesh with our entire group (staj) of Peace Corps Volunteers. We began our journey together with wide eyes and big backpacks in Philadelphia, and we continue our journey now into our first year. Both Arie and I couldn't be more thrilled, more grateful, more certain to be here doing this work with this awesome group of new friends.

Peace Corps Volunteers (all of them everywhere) are amazing and wonderful people. I love how we are all so different yet so very able to come together in one room with open hearts and bigs smiles, cheering each other onward and forward toward all the challenges and successes that will make up our single Peace Corps experiences. While our individual service – what we achieve in our communities and how we impact the youth we serve – is a focal point, it will also be our relationships and friendships with each other that will be an integral part of our experience.

Cheers friends!

They've Got Our Backs

It's so hot! It's late. I am tired, sweaty, and stuffed full of food. We just got home from a very large meal – a breaking of the fast during Ramadan – and as I try to change into something cooler our neighbors (we call them Host Family #3) begin banging on our door calling my name - “Kate!” Kate!” Their doorbell works and ours doesn't (thankfully), so when someone comes calling there is lots of knocking and yelling. “Bletti!” I shout – which means “wait” - and I quickly throw on a big mumu to cover up some skin. This only makes me sweat more. I enter the hall and there is my friend, Khadija, downstairs standing in our doorway with her little niece and nephew. We had just left their house where we had feasted with their family and have literally been home for less than 5 minutes. Did they follow us? Apparently they found a key. Is it ours? Did we drop it? Can we get into our apartment? They want to know – to be sure that we are safely home and not missing a key. “No, it's not ours, and yes, we got in fine. No, we don't know whose it is...thanks and bye!”

Wow, I think. They found a key and got dressed up to come out to see if it was ours. That is nice, and then I think about it a little more. You see, in America I don't think someone would do that in the same way. Maybe if one found a key they would call us on the phone. Maybe not immediately, because it is 11:30pm, but maybe in the morning. Would an American leave their home to chase after us to be certain we didn't lose a key that we might need to unlock our front door? Things are different here in Morocco – Moroccans are different. They will go out of their way at any time of the day to help you, to make sure you are safe, comfortable, happy. Moroccans make wonderful friends.

Our first and favorite Moroccan friend - Mr. El Ghali G.

Dedicated, loving, helpful, caring...when you've got a Moroccan for a friend this is what you get. Once you are “in” you are “in for life”. They love you like family and will always be on your side and watching your back.

The moment I began to understand the extent of a Moroccan friendship was when our town ran out of water for 24 hours. A pipe had been broken somewhere upstream, and as the hours passed people began to realize that water would have to come from somewhere else. The school near us had a reserve tank of water that it was sharing from, and the town provided the citizens with a giant water truck. As soon as this was known, our Moroccan friends knew to tell us. In the span of 5 minutes we got 2 phone calls and a knock on the door. They all wanted to inform us where the water was, and not only that they all offered to help us carry our buckets to and from our home. There was not a chance that we were going to go thirsty.

Moroccans friends and family are really good at making you feel loved. They deeply care for you and want to you know it – especially when you have to spend time apart.

When Arie and I went to spend one night in Fes – our first night away from our first host family in Azrou – we thought it would be a good idea to give them the phone number of the hotel we would be staying at – in case of an emergency. At 10am on Sunday morning there was a knock on our door – there was a phone call for us at the front desk. It was our host family. They wanted to say hi, tell us that they missed us, and also would be we be home in time for kaskrut (evening tea time)? We were surprised, a little confused, and very humored – we were only gone for 1 night, and why didn't they just call our cell phone? Needless to say we felt very loved, and we began to feel a strong love for our sweet Moroccan host family who missed us already.

Our host siblings in Akka - they missed us so much during Ramadan!

The first thing our Akka Host Family did when they returned home after being away for the whole month of Ramadan was call us – they wanted to see us. Immediately. Daba (now). While most of the time Moroccans are laid back and easy going, when they want something now, they mean NOW. In a indirect battle of culture control I made them wait 3 hours until I was done doing my thing and ready go. We went to their home and sat and talked for a short time. You see, they had missed us, and I think we missed them a little too...or maybe a lot...

We love our Moroccan friends and family – they are always there for us and are ready to go out of their way to help us and make sure that we are happy and comfortable. It is their love and support that keeps us here, working hard. It is their love and support that reminds us that Morocco is our home now too.

Make Yourself Some Almond Milk

Milk alternatives in Morocco are scarce and expensive.  I like to have a milk alternative around for various reasons – cereal, mac and cheese, fruit smoothies...  I have discovered that the best DIY option is almond milk, because raw almonds are easy to find in Morocco.   Many Hanuts sell raw almonds, in fact the Hanut directly below our apartment has them – how convenient! Here is my recipe and method. Bear in mind that measurements are approximate.

Ingredients:

1 cup of raw almonds

4 cups of water

6 soft dates – pitted

1 tablespoon of honey

a pinch or two of salt

*the dates and honey are the natural sweeteners. They are optional, and you can choose to add less or more or one or the other or none
*add more or less water to achieve your personal desired consistency
*homemade almond milk can turn sour fast, so if you do not think you will consume 4 cups in 1-3 days, you may want to cut the recipe in half

Steps:

Soak almonds for a few hours or overnight

Boil some water, remove it from the heat and add the almonds

Let the almonds sit for a few minutes and then strain

Once the almonds are cool begin to peel them – they should slide easily out of their skins

In a blender or food processor grind the peeled almonds into small pieces – my blender has a small spice grinder attachment, so I grind them in this in small batches

Chop or grind the dates into small chunks

In a blender or food processor combine almond pieces, date chunks, honey, salt, and water and pulse and blend for a few minutes until everything is creamy, white, and milky – yummy!
Using a fine strainer, strain the milk into a container

Voila! You now have made yourself some almond milk!

*if you want, simmer the milk on the stovetop before refrigerating (I am not a scientist, so I think that this may kill some germs - if any exist - and help keep the milk longer?)

*before you use the milk, be sure to stir it since some of the fine almond pulp that made it through the strainer tends to settle

What to do with the leftover almond pulp?
As a Peace Corps volunteer, one motto I have - especially in the kitchen - is "waste not, want not". You will have some almond pulp left over in your strainer.  What can you use it for? I like to add it to fruit and yogurt smoothies or to my barley grit cereal; I have also made cookies with it. Be sure to store it in an airtight container in either the fridge or freezer. Here are some websites with info on almond pulp and with many ideas and recipes for how to make use of it:
3 Creative Uses For Almond Pulp
Easy Almond Pulp Cookies
Almond Pulp Freezer Fudge
More Almond Pulp Recipes

Have fun and enjoy!

Product Review: Argan Oil

I LOVE Argan Oil! I discovered this magical oil last year, 6 months before arriving in Morocco, and it has become my favorite and most essential beauty product. Its popularity in the US is growing – have you noticed it on the shelves of your beauty and health care product aisle?

I was excited to learn that I would be serving as a Peace Corps volunteer in the dry hot desert of Morocco – land of the Argan tree and home to many small cooperatives run by women that harvest and process this magical oil. Argan oil in the southern/Anti-Atlas region of Morocco is abundant and inexpensive. I will be stocking up and sending some home as gifts!

My Argan oil collection...LOVE...

Below are my favorite uses of Argan oil and some of my favorite Argan products
(small sizes and approximate prices listed):

Face
The first time I came across Argan oil was at Sephora. I was in dire need of something that could help the dry skin of my t-zone. Heavy moisturize and mild soap were not working. The sales associate suggested Argan oil, and to my surprise I learned that it was made exclusively in Morocco – the country I would soon be living in. I began to directly apply a few drops of oil, and it immediately began working on my dry, scaly skin. Within a few days my dry patches were gone and my skin was soft and supple.

The wonderful thing about Argan oil is that it mimics your skin's own natural oil, and more importantly it does not feel heavy or greasy on your face. It is also helps to heal blemishes; just apply a drop or two of Argan oil until the area is healed. When there are no areas of my face that need special attention I simply mix a drop or two with my daily (SPF15) and nightly moisturizer for an added healthy boost of Argan oil love.

The Sephora products I purchased were Josie Maran brand – check out her website here. The Argan oil comes in a small glass bottle with a eye dropper for a lid - an eyedropper is the best tool for application. I also love the Josie Maran Argan Daily Moisturizer SPF40. I carry this small bottle in my purse for days when my face needs a little extra sunscreen. I also use it specially on my tattoo when it is exposed to the sun.

15 ml/.5 fl oz Josie Maran Argan Oil – found at Sephora - in stores and online (14.00$)

15 mn/.5 fl oz Josie Maran Argan Daily Moisturizer SPF40 – found at Sephora - in stores and online (14.00$)

Hair
Argan oil is great for hair; it is the only product I use after a wash. Just massage a dime or nicke sized amount of Argan oil into damp hair with a special focus on the ends. It absorbs like your body's natural oil and makes hair soft and shiny.

I purchased Moroccan Oil brand in the US – check out their website here. It smells wonderful, but is not 100% Argan oil. Nonetheless, it is very nice in the hair!

25 ml/.85 fl oz Moroccan Oil – found in fine salons (15.00$)

Body
After shaving (any area including armpits!) or exfoliating add some Argan oil to your body lotion and generously slather it on. I use a more affordable brand of Argan oil for my body that I found at my local natural food co-op. Brand names are more expensive, and I highly recommend using Aura Cacia for hair, face, and body.

30 ml/1 fl oz Aura Cacia Argan Oil – found at your natural food co-op (15.00$)

Food
Argan oil is a delicious alternative to olive oil. I satuee veggies in it and add it to salads. You can also do as the Moroccans do: dip fresh baked bread in Argan oil or drizzle it over pasta or cous cous. Yum. I am not sure if you can find Argan oil for cooking in the US, and it is bound to be expensive. In Morocco is is relatively expensive, but when you do the math it comes out to be affordable in dollars: 100 ml/3.4 fl oz Argan oil for cooking – 50dHs (6.25$)

Affordable Argan products purchased in Morocco.

Argan oil purchased in Morocco is much more affordable than in the US. I purchased a spray bottle of oil and some soap from a local cooperative in the Tata region of Morocco (where I work and live). Compare the costs:
40 ml/1.36 fl oz Argan Oil spray – 30dHs (3.75$)
Argan Oil soap – 20dHs (2.50$)

Small local Argan oil cooperatives, which usually employ and are managed by women,
produce wonderful and affordable Argan products that are sold regionally and internationally.

 

Some Argan Oil resources:
http://www.amaloils.com/

http://www.arganoilshop.com/

Article: Hard Nut to Crack: Beauty andAntioxidant Oil

Home Sweet Home Morocco المغرب

  Hello from Akka, Morocco!

Akka is a small, hot, dry desert town at the base of the Anit-Atlas Mountains.  Surrounding Akka are small Berber villages and the largest palmerie/oasis in Morocco.  There are lizards, scorpions, camels, tree-climbing goats, wild dogs, wild cats, roosters, donkeys, sheep, and wild rabbits.  Two days a week we buy our fresh produce from the local farmer's market in town.  The eggs are always fresh, and we can watch a chicken get its head cut off before we take it home to eat. We like it here.

 We visited the palmerie/oasis one day with our host family for a picnic. It was like going to the beach, but there was no ocean.  Sad.

No sandwiches for lunch on our trip to the oasis - it's hot tagine cooked on site!

We have been in Morocco for 3 months - wow! 23 months to go...only. Some things we have observed about Morocco, the people, and the culture (bear in mind these general observations, NOT absolute truths - which is why we say "some" or "most"):

Some Moroccans do not wear seat-belts - in all cars we have ridden in they are not accessible for various reasons.

Some Moroccans rarely if at all brush their teeth.  Toothaches, lack of teeth, and swollen gums are common in adults.

Most Moroccans LOVE sugar and carbs.  White bread and sweet (and I mean syrupy sweet) Moroccan mint tea are daily staples for many Moroccans.  Most Moroccans drink tea like many Americans drink coffee.  Bread is the main food for breakfast and snack, and it is the primary eating utensil for lunch and dinner.  Cous cous, white rice, and white pasta are also eaten on a regular basis. Good luck trying to find brown rice or whole wheat bread.  Sugar in tea, sugar in coffee, sugar in juice, sugar on vegetables, sugar on fruit...

Since most meals are eaten from a communal dish, it is custom not to talk much during the meal (see photo above).  If you talk during your meal, you may not get your share of food.  Most Moroccans eat only with their right hand.  This is because the left hand is considered dirty (as it is used for bathroom things).  Kate being a lefty sometimes makes the mistake of reaching for food with her left hand but is adjusting nonetheless.  Eating with a spoon in the left hand is OK though.

The word "inshallah" (God willing) is used for all future events - even for most definitely certain future events.  "See you tomorrow! Inshallah." See you tomorrow if God wills it.  Even though we are pretty certain that we will see you tomorrow, you just never know...It is a great word to use in place of "maybe" or "no" too.  Our host family: "Would you like to come to dinner?" (which means dinner at 12:30am...so late!).  We say: "Inshallah"  - which is polite for "no thanks".  It is also a great way to put off making a decision until the last minute too.

In regards to events and gatherings - usually there is very little planning ahead and there is a mad rush at the end.  There is usually no strict schedule and things rarely begin on time.

In business people come and go as needed and there are rarely posted "hours".  Even the post office, the only place we have seen with posted hours, oftentimes closes before the posted time. 

Cell phone interruptions are perfectly acceptable in most all situations.

There is no such thing as a line or a queue and the idea of "first come first serve" does not really exist.  At the post office, a bank, a store, or a market you just walk up to the counter and if you stand back a little waiting for the customer ahead of you someone else may walk up in front of you. 

Some Moroccans like to blame natural causes rather than take responsibility for illness/sickness.  A day trip with our host family ended in food poisoning for Kate and heat exhaustion for our host mom's sister. The bad water in the city we visited was to blame. Bed bug bites at our host family's house? It was the humid air in Agadir - bad for circulation.  Some Moroccans like to blame blowing air and cold for illness/sickness too.  Even when it is 100 degrees many Moroccans will not want the windows rolled down in a taxi for fear of getting sick.

These aspects of the culture have been the most interesting, surprising, and the more challenging for us to adjust to.  But now at least we have our own home where we can prepare our own meals with a little less sugar. Below are some photos of our apartment in Akka.

Home sweet home!

Laundry on the roof - it dries in no time!

Kitchen - stove and blender.

Our fancy fridge and laundry buckets.

Our living room - the floor mats also serve as our beds.

Welcome to the Desert

The journey is long and hot; our bags are heavy and we stink.

The bus is full and wobbles with every bump and turn.

Up through the desert mountains a winding road like a roller coaster

moves us forward towards a place we have never known.

Camels, tan, brown, black, one hump, two, and a baby.

Goats enjoying an argan nut snack, one is up in a tree.

These are the tree climbing kind of goat.

2 women, 1 man stand in the road as the bus driver stomps on the breaks.
They get on.

2 claps will stop the bus; you can get off anywhere.

We are alone on the road in the desolate desert.

What if the bus breaks down?

Do we have enough water?

Just imagine, but we arrive with water to spare.

This is Morocco.

We are home.

We sleep under the stars in a concrete courtyard.
In a metal crib with a cardboard mattress sleeps Adam.

On the ground sleep mother, father, sister, brother.
We lay on a bed, because Moroccans are welcoming and generous.

Behind a wooden door are 3 sheep and 1 goat.

Above us the north star and the big dipper.

Cats wander in under the front door to sniff for scraps.
A radio in the distance sings a song in minor key while a donkey brays.

The desert breeze ruffles our sheet.

This is Morocco.
We are home.

8 Weeks in Morocco!

Hello Friends and Family!

We can hardly beleive that we have been in Morocco for 8 weeks! One week from now we will be saying farewell to our wonderful host family in Azrou and heading to Rabat to prepare to be sworn in as official Peace Corps Volunteers! We have been very busy studying language and culture and preparing for our work as youth development volunteers. 

The past two months of training have been exhilarating - full of challenges, learning, and most importantly laughter (the kind where tears roll down your eyes and you almost pee your pants).  Below is a graph to exemplify some of Kate's adjustment observations.  While the ups and downs look extreme overall our ability to cope and adjust has been easy and comfortable.  Although, once we leave Azrou and get to our final site a whole new adjustment cycle will begin.  Flexibility, a positive attitude, and perseverance are the keystones of a positive and successful Peace Corps experience!

                                                                                                                                                           

We LOVE the food in Morocco - it is AMAZING. 

Below is a photo of a very special dish called Bastilla.  It is a giant pastry pocket made of filo dough, and wrapped inside is chicken (this one contains one and a half chickens), spices (like cinnamon, saffron, coriander...), onions (maybe 10?), and a bunch of parsley.  That is the first layer of the Bastilla.  The second layer is almonds, eggs, and sugar.  That is all wrapped up and baked in the oven.  The top is sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon.  Everyone sits around the big Bastilla and breaks it up and eats it with their fingers. YUM - 7 of us took this one out for lunch one day. 

 

Some other foods we LOVE:

Zmita - which contains roasted and ground up: peanuts, almonds, soybeans, corn, flax seeds, sesame seeds.  Also flour, sugar, oil, and fennel seed.  Every thing is ground to a powder and mixed together.  Depending on the batch you either eat it with a spoon or with your fingers.  We get some for breakfast every morning.

Melawi - this is like flat tortilla/crepe bread, but better than both.  You can put honey or jam on it, or just eat it plain.

Rfisa - this is a big dish that consits of pieces of Melawi covered with pieces of chicken, lentils and gravy.  For some more info on Rfisa and a recipe click HERE

Shpekiya - is sinful. It is some sort of fried pastry the is SOAKED in honey and oil.  Mmmmm...

Beef and prune tagine - imagine slow cooked beef in a rich gravy with big warm prunes on top. 


We visited Fes one weekend.  We spent most of our time wandering around the narrow streets of the old medina (medina = city).  Below is a photo of one of the main gates into the old medina.

Below is a photo of Arie and our LCF (Language and Culture Facilitator) Elghali as we navigated the maze of small streets with little doors into the homes of Moroccans.

While in Fes we ate lunch at Cafe Clock - check out their website HERE.  This cafe offers vegetarian and vegan food (along with camel burgers), as well as cooking classes and yoga classes.  The cafe has multiple floors and a rooftop terrace.  It would be a great place to hang out and use some wifi while sipping coffee and snacking on some hummus and tabbouleh.  Below is a photo of Arie and Kate on the rooftop of the cafe.

Yesterday we led a English/Yoga session at the Dar Chebab (Dar = house, Chebab = youth, therefore a Dar Chebab is a community youth center).  Over a hundred youth showed up, and Arie had no problem getting them all to do some mountain, tree, and eagle poses!