A Moroccan Adventure!

 "It will the biggest adventure of your lifetime!" This is what we told my mom, dad, and little sister as they prepared for their big trip to visit us in Morocco.  We were all excited! My family was excited to see the wonders of Morocco and its rich culture, and Arie and I were excited to share our experience and journey with my family.  It was a wonderful and magical trip! Everyone stayed healthy and safe - ahumdullah.

We all agreed that:
Fes - is a great and wonderful city to visit!
Azrou - is beautiful!
Essaouira - is magical!
Marrakesh - well...needless to say, it was our least favorite city we spent time in...

My family got a great dose of Moroccan culture:
They ate the traditional couscous on Friday with our host family in Azrou.
They experienced kaskrut - Moroccan tea time.
They ate zmita, melawi, olives, dates, and fresh warm bread.
They ate fresh caught seafood.
They ate from a tagine.
They squeezed into a Grand Taxi for a 2 hour ride.
They rode through the Atlas mountains.
They took a first class train ride north.
They rode camels on the beach.
They heard us speaking French and Arabic.
They met our friend Eghali.
They met some lovely and very cool Peace Corps Volunteers.
They walked through Jeema el fna in Marrakesh on New Year's Eve.
They stayed in two beautiful riads.
They took a Moroccan style nap on ponges covered with blankets.
They used the Turkish toilet (aka squatty potty) successfully.
They saw wealth.
They saw poverty.
They saw goats up in the Argan Trees eating the nuts.
They saw the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean.

What I also want to say is that I am so proud of my family for making this trip.  I am certain that they never imagined themselves ever visiting North Africa, but they came.  Maybe they were a little worried, or scared, or nervous, or anxious, but ultimately they had a wonderful time full of learning and fun.  You just never know where your path in life will lead. 

View of Ktoubia Mosque in Marrakesh

 

The beautiful and traditional tile work at Bou Inania Medersa in Fes

 

 

A visit to a tannery inside the old medina of Fes

 

 Our family got to meet our favorite Moroccan friend in Fes

 

Enjoying traditional Moroccan couscous with our CBT host family in Azrou

 

 Fishing boats in Essaouira

 

Riding camels on the beach of Essaouira was the highlight of our trip

  

A champagne toast over a seafood lunch in Essaouira

 

The sun sets over a couple of camels and the Atlantic Ocean on our last night together in Morocco

Happy Holidays from Morocco!

 

Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas 

and a happy New Year!
Thank you all for your support and love, prayers and well wishes, and care packages and letters! 

2012 has been an amazing year for us.  We look forward to 2013, and we wish and hope for peace and equality at home and around the world.

Love, Arie & Kate

got goat?

A Warm and Cozy Meal:
Spicy Goat Stew & Winter Squash Gratin

We Peace Corps Volunteers who live in Morocco most likely spent at least one day (if not four days) celebrating the important Muslim holiday of l'Eid al Adha.  The main tradition of l'Eid is that each household or family sacrifices at least one goat or sheep; then everyone feasts for four days on all parts of the animal (including its internal organs, brain, and eyeballs).  Often a family will share some of its meat with those who are less fortunate.  Arie and I received two gifts of goat meat from neighbors and friends which we put in the freezer. This was about the time I began to fear that the bags of frozen meat would end up lost in the back of the freezer for a year.  I was determined to find a delicious way to utilize the meat.  I searched the web for ideas and came up with the Spicy Goat Stew recipe of my own based on what was available in our site and our kitchen.

In addition to this recipe is a delicious squash dish that can be served along side the stew.  Squash is my favorite winter vegetable, and this is my favorite way to prepare it.  I make it a few times each season.  The recipe comes from my favorite cookbook: Vegetarian Cooking For Everyone by Deborah Madison given to me nearly 15 years ago (when I was still a teenager who thought it was cool to be veggie) as a Christmas gift from my Aunt Bridget and her family.  This classic cookbook, with an encyclopedic perspective on all earthly foods, contains simple and delicious ways to prepare everything.  Even for non-vegetarians this book offers ways to prepare simple, healthy and tasty meals.

*Please note the length of time it takes both dishes to cook (up to 2 hours) - plan accordingly (if you are a PCV - you've got time; plus this will warm up your kitchen)!  Enjoy! 

Spicy Goat Stew - Serves 4

Ingredients
2 Tbs olive oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 pound goat meat, cut in 1″ cubes
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
28 oz can of tomatoes or 5 peeled tomatoes; chopped (*see instructions below to make your own tomatoes)
Pinch saffron
2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade (or 1 cube of knorr with 2 cups of water) 

Spice Mixture
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon dried hot peppers (hang and dry your own and then grind them up)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper 

Garnish
sour cream (plain yogurt)
fresh chopped cilantro 

Instructions
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Cook the onion until soft and transparent, about 5 minutes.

Place the spices for the spice mixture in a medium bowl and whisk to combine thoroughly. Toss the goat in the mixture until well-coated. Add the goat and garlic to the pot with the onions; increase the heat to medium high and cook, stirring frequently, until the goat is browned.

Stir the tomatoes, saffron and chicken stock into the pot with the spiced goat. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil; cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 to 1.5 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove the cover and continue cooking until the sauce has thickened and the goat becomes fork tender, about another half hour. At this point, the stew can be refrigerated and reheated later. Serve with plain yogurt and fresh cilantro. Yum!

*To make your own “canned” tomatoes – take 5 large ripe tomatoes and core them (cut out the center where they were connected to the vine) and cut an 'X' in their bottom (this will make them easier to peel). Have a boiling pot of water on the stove ready and bowl of ice cold water ready. Drop one or a few tomatoes in the boiling water and let sit for 60 seconds. Remove and place in cold water 60 seconds. Remove from cold water and peel off their skins. Cut into quarters and remove the juice and seeds. Place juice and seeds in a strainer to strain the juice. Keep the juice, toss the seeds, chop the quarters. The juice and the chopped tomatoes will (approximately) equal a 28 oz can.

Winter Squash Gratin - Serves 4
Ingredients
About 2 lbs (1 kilo) butternut squash (or any variety of yellow/orange squash)
5 garlic gloves, finely chopped
½ cup chopped (fresh) parsley (dry parsley can be used too)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons flour
Extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions 
Preheat the oven to 325 F. and oil a shallow baking dish. Peel the squash and cut it into even-sized cubes, from ½ inch to 1 inch. Toss it with the garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. Add the flour and toss again until the pieces are coated lightly, letting the excess fall to the bottom. Pile the squash into the dish and drizzle oil generously over the top. Bake, uncovered, until the squash is browned and tender when pierced with a knife, about 2 hours. When served, the individual pieces will collapse into a puree. (Credit: Deborah Madison, “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.”)

Recipes to Keep You Warm

December has arrived and the weather has turned cooler.  For us that means 70's and 80's when the sun is shining and wool sweater weather once the sun sets.  For other volunteers in Morocco (living in the north or up in the Atlas mountains) this means a cold, snowy winter without central heating.  Here are two recipes to keep you warm this winter: Vegan Carrot Bread (there is nothing like a warm oven to heat up the kitchen) and Root Vegetable Soup (if it weren't for the chicken Knorr, this soup would be vegan too).  Enjoy!

Vegan Carrot Bread

Ingredients

• 1 cup carrot puree (steam carrots then puree in a food processor)
• 1 1/2 cups shredded carrots
• 2 cups sugar
• 3 cups flour
• 2 tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 3/4 cup soy milk (carrot juice or pineapple juice works well too)
• 2 tsp vanilla
• 1/2 cup dried fruit (raisins)
• 1 cup shredded coconut (sweetened or unsweetened, your choice)
• 1 tbsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp ground ginger (if you have)
• 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg (if you have)
• 1/2 cup oats
• 1/2 cup oats (used for the topping)
  

Instructions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease your pan of choice:
1 bundt (1 hour 15 minutes)
2 loaf (50 minutes)
6 mini loaf (45 minutes)

Mix wet ingredients in a large bowl, and mix dry ingredients in another bowl. Slowly add dry ingredients into large bowl with wet ingredients. Stir. Spoon batter into prepared pan(s), sprinkle with 1/2 cup of remaining oats, bake for the amount next to each pan above, or until a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Cool in pans for about 15 minutes, then finish cooling on a wire rack. Store in an air tight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Baked loaves can be wrapped then frozen for up to a few months. Just thaw at room temperature for a few hours before eating.
Note:
This is a quick bread - which means it is slightly sweet.  It is not quite like carrot cake and is best enjoyed warm with butter. 

 Root Vegetable Soup

Ingredients
Veggies of your choice:

• 1 cup diced potato
• 1 cup diced carrot
• 1 cup diced turnip
• 1 cup diced squash or pumpkin (if including, add with the chickpeas since it cooks faster)
• 1 cup diced sweet potato

• 1 medium onion diced
• 4 cloves of garlic chopped
• 2 cups of chickpeas cooked
• Approx ¼ cup of Olive Oil
• Salt, Pepper, Cumin to taste (about 1 tsp each)
• Rosemary, Thyme, Oregano to taste (about 1 TBS each) - ground if possible
• 1 cube of Chicken Knorr
• 1 Bay Leaf
• Water
• 3 TBS of flour

Instructions

Heat olive oil in large pot and add onion, saute for about 5 min, then add garlic, veggies, and all spices. Cook, stirring, for about 5 min. Add water (enough to cover all veggies and 1 inch above veggie level) Knorr, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 10 min. Add cooked chickpeas (and squash/pumpkin), and simmer until veggies are tender. Remove 2 cups of liquid broth and add it to a small bowl. Add flour and whisk (this will thicken the soup when added). Put flour mixture and 2 cups of soup (with chunks of veggies) into a blender and puree. Add puree back into soup and stir. Enjoy. Usually serves about 6.

Rosemary, Thyme, Oregano, and Bay Leaf
are very important additions!

Giving Thanks

It's November! I have noticed that on Facebook a lot of people are posting something that they are thankful for each day of the month.  This is an idea that I really like, so I am going to attempt to do so over the span of this month right here in this blog post.  Check back for updates!

November 1st - We are thankful for our local Souk!

We are thankful for our Souk, a farmers market that happens bi-weekly is our town, is our best opportunity to purchase fresh produce; there are no supermarkets in the desert. Our weekly meal planning revolves around Souk days.  We get really excited when there are: ripe avocados, fresh figs, sweet red peppers, turnips with a big bunch of greens on their tops, and fresh lettuce.  Since we are so remote, there is usually little variety. Nonetheless, we love to go and see what is fresh and in season!

 November 2nd - Couscous Friday!

It's FRIDAY! In Morocco this means couscous! Moroccans love to eat couscous on Fridays and on holidays.  We go and eat couscous with our host family every Friday that we are in site.  Couscous might be the most important and most delicious dish (in our opinion) in Morocco. We are so thankful to have a time each week with our host family to share such a wonderful meal. Yum!

November 3rd - The Guitar!

We are thankful that our Dar Chebab, or local youth center, has multiple guitars. Arie has fixed them up and is starting to give lessons to a few boys in our community.  He practices the guitar himself for an hour or two each day.  He is getting really good, especially with the blues, and I enjoy listening to him (unless I am trying to take a nap).

November 4th - PCMOs 
(Peace Corps Medical Officers)!

The PCMOs in Morocco are a wonderful team of qualified doctors who advise and support us during the physical and mental ups and downs of our service.  We are thankful for their support!

“We must find time to stop and thank the 
people who make a difference in our lives.”
― John F. Kennedy

November 5th - Our Community!

Here is the desert we are surrounded by wonderful people.  Our Peace Corps Volunteer friends, our host family, our Moroccan friends, our Dar Chebab Mudir (youth center director), our neighbors, our favorite Hanut owners (shopkeepers), the post office workers, the women, the men, and the youth who are friendly and welcoming.  They all support us and the work we do. We are thankful that every time we return home from being out and about in the community we have smiles on our faces and laughter in our hearts.

“Let us be grateful to the people who make us happy; 

they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom.”
― Marcel Proust

 November 6th - Freedom, Equality, and the Privilege to VOTE!

Being in a foreign country and immersed in a foreign culture gives you a new perspective on your own home country and culture.  We realize that as Americans we are very fortunate, and so we are grateful to realize this so as not to take it for granted. Now get out there and take advantage of the great opportunity and VOTE!
     

November 7th - Our President and First Lady!

Four more years! What a wonderful, beautiful, amazing couple we have to lead our country - I am so proud and thankful. Onward and Forward President Obama! Watch Obama's Victory Speech HERE!

 November 8th - Our New Oven! 

Our wonderful host family had an extra oven that was just sitting in storage, so they lent it to us for the duration of our time in Akka.  Most Moroccan apartments do not come with appliances (like a refridgerator, oven, washing machine/dryer), so you have to buy your own.  We splurged on a nice fridge, but we had to save our money for an oven. Thankfully we can continue to save our money.  And thankfully it is big enough for a turkey, since we are hosting a Peace Corps Thanksgiving!

November 9th - Notes from the Universe!

I LOVE to get daily messaged in my inbox from The Universe.  They are little reminders that "your thoughts become things, choose the good ones." The Universe also sends messages the show you new perspectives about the magic of life, yourself, and others. This is the one I got today:
"So very much can happen in a lifetime, or even on a single day of any lifetime. Yet I can assure you that whatever has or will happen in yours, no matter what chasms you cross, heights you scale, or how many people you love and are loved by, when all is said and done and you take that final look over your shoulder, what will humble you the very most, will be that you got to be YOU."
Of all people,
    The Universe

A message like this reminds me to be grateful for the adventure I am on and to enjoy the ride! If you want to get a daily message from The Universe, click HERE.

November 10th - Fall Weather in Frankfurt!

 We are thankful to get away from the heat of the desert to spend a week in Germany.  Our natural habitat is one with 4 seasons.

 November 11th - LEGOS!

Both Arie and I loved Legos when we were kids - what a great activity! We are thankful that our parents knew that Legos were awesome!

 

November 12th - Salad!

It is not easy to find lettuce of any kind in the desert, let alone dried cranberries, walnuts, feta cheese and honey mustard dressing.  We are thankful for the opportunity to eat a big salad for dinner. Yum! What a treat!

November 13th - Birkenstocks!

Germany makes superior products, and Birkenstocks are superior shoes.  I am thankful to be able to afford them and to have a chance to purchase them and bring them back to Morocco.  Finding healthy, comfortable, and cute shoes in Morocco is not easy. 

November 14th - Starbucks!

In my opinion, finding good tasting coffee in Morocco and Germany is not easy.  So often it is just espresso (which can be good) or instant Nescafe.  Thankfully Starbucks exists in Germany (yes, I know there are 2 Starbucks in Casablanca, but when will I get there and do they have soy milk?).  All around the world you can count on good coffee from Starbucks.  Good coffee is catching on in Germany, and we managed to try some local coffee too, but if you must go corporate - Starbucks wins.

...

November 22nd - A Happy Thanksgiving!

Traditions allow us to express that which is important to us.  Traditions play a role in defining who we are as individuals, families, groups, and cultures. Traditions give us hope for the future - something to work towards or to look forward to.  Traditions provide comfort and structure and define periods of time.  Being in a foreign country with traditions that are new and different can be unsettling and can create a feeling of loss and loneliness.  I feel that making a point to maintain your own personal traditions can help with feelings of homesickness and sadness while being away from home.  This is why I am so grateful and thankful to have a great group of Peace Corps Volunteers to celebrate the tradition of Thanksgiving with.  We will be feasting on the classic Thanksgiving foods: turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, cranberries, pecan pie, and pumpkin pie...plus a lot of other delicious foods.  The only thing missing will be our American friends and family, and some cool weather with leaves on the ground.  The Sahara desert will have to do.  Happy Thanksgiving!

November 23rd - Those Who Have Taught Us!

The turkey was delicious, the party was fun, and overall our Thanksgiving was a success.  We served a 30 pound turkey (it was the smallest one available) and hosted 20 Peace Corps Volunteers at our house - this was our first time ever hosting Thanksgiving, and it was a great success! Everyone brought delicious food to share, and the meal went off without a hitch (even though we ate 1 hour later than planned).  Arie and I have our elders to thank for this success: our grandmothers and grandfathers, our aunts and uncles, and our mothers and fathers. Those who hosted thanksgivings past and made the experience fun, delicious, and memorable have taught Arie and I how to pull it off on our own.  We watched and learned over the past 30 years of how a Thanksgiving day is done.  We absorbed the traditions and values of our families (games after dinner, candles on the table...), and now we can do it on our own.  Thank you!
...

 November 26th - Living in the Desert!

Now that the weather is cooler, our bikes are in working condition, and we have visitors to show around, we get the chance to explore the area we live in.  Wow - it is breathtakingly beautiful! We live on the edge of the mountains and the Sahara Desert in the largest palm oasis in Morocco. While we miss the four seasons of Minnesota, we are thankful to experience new terrain and a new climate.
...

 

November 30th - TGIF!

Wow! We just had our FIRST full week of work (the kind where you get up and go somewhere and have to plan and prepare)! It sure feels good to get to the weekend, and we are thankful for this.  Technically we work every day - we are representatives of the United States, and part of our job is to share our culture.  We do this by being present in our community and building positive relationships within our community - this work happens everyday.  This summer we planned and implemented two summer camps for youth, and after that we spent the fall traveling around the country to Peace Corps trainings and meetings, traveling north to visit the dentist, celebrating l'Eid, celebrating Thanksgiving, and taking a vacation to Germany.  After all that we are VERY ready to have a work schedule and routine.  And now finally this week we got that! We have been working at the Dar Chebab (youth center), Netti Neswi (women's center - Kate), and the Lycee (high school). Thank God it is Friday - it feels good to start a work routine that brings you to a weekend.

Product Review: Lalla Love

Lalla means Madame or Mylady in Moroccan Arabic, and when I stepped into the boutique Lalla: from Marrakech with love xxx I certainly felt like a Madame. I found myself surrounded by gorgeous handbags and accessories made by hand from the finest of leathers in the boldest of colors. A small boutique hidden on the second floor in the souks (markets) of the old medina (old city) of Marrakech, Lalla: from Marrakech with love xxx is an hidden treasure chest of many temptations.
 

Laetitia Trouillet, the designer and owner got her start at the Portobello Road Market in London, and as her bags grew in popularity and demand she took her business to Marrakech. Many of Laetitia's bags have a Moroccan flair to them: the cross body saddle bag, traditional Moroccan carpet bags, and makeup bags made from vintage Moroccan fabric. Each one is unique and lovely.

Every purse is one-of-a-kind and handmade by Laetitia and 3 others in her workshop in Marrakech. Large purses, coin purses, studded clutches – all made from the finest of leather and suede and all with fine details that will please a sharp eye. Hot pink piping, funky fabric lining, or a sparkly blue zipper pull make Lalla bags special. An important feature of Lalla bags is that the “leather doesn't smell” unlike the traditional leather Moroccan bags found throughout the souks of Marrakech and Fez. 

Mine! Leather clutch and African fabric tote.  The love is in the details.

The best and most exciting part about shopping at Lalla: from Marrakech with love xxx is that these bags are affordable; but only in Marrakech. Once Laetitia ships her bags off to exclusive, high-end retailers and boutiques in New York City, Paris and London, the prices will undoubtedly double or triple. So bring your wallet, and if you are a Peace Corps Volunteer bring your American money, because it is difficult to pass up soft, supple leather and modern style for under 100$. Lalla bags are the perfect Moroccan souvenir for Madames who look for quality, hand-craftsmanship, beauty, and affordability all wrapped up in such a lovely package!

Find Lalla in the Marrakech Medina:

Souk Cherifia; Sidi Abdelazziz
Dar El Bacha souk entrance

Good luck and happy shopping! 

A toast - Happy 6 Months Friends (PCVs 2012-2014 Morocco)!

Time slowly runs and quickly walks. One day goes by and suddenly 6 months are past; now here we are reflecting on our past 6 months living in Morocco. Look at us – overcoming challenges, facing our fears, staying committed, enduring, leading, learning, growing, and simply being awesome.

I remember my second Sunday in country – I was lying next to a napping Arie. It was a cold and rainy March day and I had never felt so alone and sad, so unsure of my place in the world. All I wanted was the warmth of home and family...but that day passed.

I remember my second week in site – it was June and I was hot and sweaty, overwhelmed by real and true culture shock, and covered (head-to-toe) in bed-bug bites. I had never been so frustrated, angry, and distraught, so ready to throw in the towel and quit...but that day passed.

And here we are celebrating 6 months – a great accomplishment – at our IST (in-service training) in Marrakesh with our entire group (staj) of Peace Corps Volunteers. We began our journey together with wide eyes and big backpacks in Philadelphia, and we continue our journey now into our first year. Both Arie and I couldn't be more thrilled, more grateful, more certain to be here doing this work with this awesome group of new friends.

Peace Corps Volunteers (all of them everywhere) are amazing and wonderful people. I love how we are all so different yet so very able to come together in one room with open hearts and bigs smiles, cheering each other onward and forward toward all the challenges and successes that will make up our single Peace Corps experiences. While our individual service – what we achieve in our communities and how we impact the youth we serve – is a focal point, it will also be our relationships and friendships with each other that will be an integral part of our experience.

Cheers friends!